El Mar

For the past couple days, Trenton and I rented a quad for it is much better for travel than by foot, bike, car or cab. Seriously, a quad is the best mode of transportation around here for the roads are gravel, dusty paths that connect towns, and the quad seems to be the only motor vehicle that can handle it.  We were looking into buying one, however, they are COSTLY down here. I mentioned to Trenton that we should start a fundraiser to support our quad purchase; of course that is a fantastical idea, however, we did post an ad on craigslist to sublet one.  We are keeping our fingers crossed.

With the quad, we are able to take both of our surfboards to the beach for a couple's surf session.  I have been longboarding the past couple days while Trenton has coached me from the whitewash since he has busted knees.  At sunset yesterday, we went down to Playa Hermosa which is a wonderful beach for beginners.  The waves are mellow and it isn't too crowded which is perfect for me because I am dangerous out there.  I get so freaked out when there are other surfers around me, for I am not comfortable enough to turn out of their way.  I am still in the "bail" mode. To my surprise, I am even bailing dangerously by jumping in front of my board rather than away from my board.  I felt the consequence yesterday after receiving a side board to the groin area; I am feeling it a little bit today too.  

I really enjoy surfing. Actually, I take that back. I enjoy the idea of surfing, but the physical act of it is very painful.  I am in the beginners phase where popping up isn't hard, neither is turning, however it is getting out to the break without getting creamed by all of the whitewash and the board that is difficult.  The ocean, or El Mar, is a very powerful source of energy that should be respected.  I always thought of myself as comfortable with the ocean until I paddle out and come face-to-face with a wave.  The minute that wave begins to break and its forceful whitewash is headed my way, I panic.  Luckily, if I were to pee my pants I would be in the ocean, and it wouldn't be a problem.  However, I am so scared, my bladder freezes up as well as my whole body until the wave plummets into my face carrying my body and board back to where I started.  This went on for a good hour this morning.  

Feeling discouraged, I dragged my board out of the ocean and headed to the beach.  I wanted a rest; I was mentally and physically beaten.  I thought to myself, "I am great at sports- why can't I get this surfing deal down?"  As I laid down underneath the morning sun, eyes closed with visions of waves breaking within the dark abyss,  I was able to settle my thoughts and come to a peaceful state of mind about surfing.  This sport is an individual sport, however, you are competing with a very powerful contender: El Mar. 

The Ocean doesn't want to hurt me, or to discourage me by my inability to flow with its energy.  Like all things it takes time, but I will be damned if I let the ocean win and fear the surfing bug right out of me.  What is that Braveheart quote, "..can't take away my freedom"... That's exactly how  I feel at this moment.  We are going back for a sunset surf tonight.  I will definitely wear face paint. Grunt. 

Adios, 

Jamie